When I was approached about reviewing City Mouse, Chef Jason Alexander’s new establishment at the swanky Ace Hotel in the West Loop, I jumped at the chance. How often do you get the chance to review a restaurant founded by a renowned chef who hails from the same city and shares your name? Chef Vincent, originally from Cleveland, Ohio, has made a name for himself here in Chicago, helming acclaimed restaurants like Lula Cafe and his own Nightwood. With a “Best New Chef” award from Food and Wine Magazine and a prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand under his belt, he made the difficult decision to close Nightwood in 2014 to spend more time with his family. Giant, and now City Mouse, are examples of how returning to the craft after a break can take your craft to the next level.
We went for dinner on a Wednesday night to find a packed house. The bar and restaurant are essentially an extension of the hotel lobby, so there’s a sense of open space. The restaurant’s year-round patio was illuminated by an open fire that cast a glow throughout the space. After a warm welcome from the staff, we were seated in a spacious and comfortable corner booth in the dining area… After perusing the menu, it was clear that Chef Vincent has decided to experiment a little with this establishment. The cuisine is based on Italian traditions, with an Asian twist. We started with a couple of sophisticated cocktails and asked the waiter about the signature dishes. For starters, we settled on the Country Mouse amuse bouche and the Mutsu apple and spelt salad, which were recommended to us. The Country Mouse is a corn croquette with cheddar cheese puree, topped with crunchy caramel and caviar. Starting your dinner with this interesting little treat will give you an idea of the flavors and textures that await you.
After tasting the combination of sweet corn and sweet caramel, I was worried that the Mutsu Apple Salad would be too sweet, given the combination of apples and roasted peach. However, it had enough spiciness to offset the natural sweetness of the fruit, and was topped with a nice tangy dressing of ginger, miso, and aromatic vinegar. The crisp apples and kohlrabi paired well with the spelt, creating not only an interesting flavor profile but also a play of textures. The Pecorino cheese added a nice salty touch. It was then that we realized that heat was a theme throughout the cuisine. Even my cocktail, the Dead Work, had poblano peppers in it, adding a smoky flavor to the rye whiskey. In fact, chili peppers pop up all over the menu and are found in many dishes. While I enjoyed the heat in the salad, my wife found it too spicy.
We also tried the burrata with Brussels sprouts, served with triangular toasts and bagna cauda sauce. The creaminess of the burrata was a welcome relief, masking the over-spiciness of the Brussels sprouts. This is one of those dishes where you have to assemble all the ingredients before you put your fork in your mouth, otherwise you risk missing the balance of nuances that the chef was aiming for.
For mains we had tagliatelle. It was a lovely al dente pasta, freshly made, with a spicy, creamy shrimp sauce. The pasta and the sweet, juicy shrimp were perfect, but the presentation was poor, and the sauce ran all the way to the bottom of the plate. There wasn’t enough sauce on top of the pasta, but when we got to the bottom there was too much. Considering how spicy the salad was, I was expecting more heat from the cream sauce. The smoked chicken, however, was a hit. The chicken thigh had been slow smoked for 12 hours and was served with cashew rice and a spicy aioli. The smokiness and tenderness of the meat paired perfectly with the texture of the toasted cashews in the rice.
As a burger lover, we couldn’t leave without trying the burger joint. With so many great burger joints in town, we had to see what Chef Vincent’s burger was like. While the burger joint deserves a place on this list, it has some worthy contenders that should be tried first. The highlights were the spicy pickles that kept the menu’s spicy theme going, and the “special sauce” that balanced everything out. The patties were crispy on the edges, but not all the way through. The burger itself was a bit dry, despite the melted cheese. The patties were seasoned just right, while the fries were over-seasoned.
We finished the meal with apple pie, served with soft serve apple ice cream and slivered caramelized almonds. The tartness of the apples kept the pie from being too sweet, and the thick crust was delicious, if a little dry. The unusual cocktails and the wine list, which is not very extensive but is reasonably priced, make this a great place for drinks and snacks. One of the most obvious advantages is the seven-day brunch. Sure, Sunday brunch is great, but not everyone works standard hours, so it’s especially nice to be able to order brunch whenever you want, rather than the usual Sunday mornings of lusting over Instagram photos of other people’s brunches.
Located in the West Loop across from Google, City Mouse is a testament to the rapid development of what was once a purely industrial area. West of the hustle and bustle of downtown, you can feel the hum of traffic on streets that are still lined with butcher shops and manufacturing facilities. It’s a Chicago vibe, and the area is increasingly making its mark as a dining mecca. Step out of the hotel lobby and you’re immediately enveloped in a simple, clean-lined atmosphere that combines an industrial feel that reflects the neighborhood’s character with a sense of high design that lends a luxurious feel. Exposed concrete ceilings and columns are framed by tall plants and hanging tapestries. The dining area, surrounded by a glass wall, features cutting-edge furniture and industrial touches that add to the chic feel.
It’s no coincidence that Chef Vincent’s establishments are so successful; his ingenuity and attention to detail worked here too. If you find yourself in the West Loop, have a meeting at Google, or are looking for a new spot to try when you’re in Chicago, be sure to check out this place that combines a dynamic neighborhood vibe with a hip setting and an inviting patio (which we can’t wait to visit next summer).
Pros
- Trendy place, great design and lots of space both inside and out.
- An inventive menu from a renowned chef featuring a variety of homemade pasta dishes with a twist.
- Creative cocktails that pair well with food and replicate some of the flavors of the dishes.
- Brunch seven days a week is ideal for people with irregular work schedules.
- The service staff is well trained and attentive, but at the same time no one is in a hurry.
Cons
- Some may find the place a bit cold and glamorous, despite the friendly service.
- There are a lot of spicy dishes on the menu. This is a plus if you like it hot. Fortunately, there are no dishes so hot that you have to call the fire department.
- Some dishes have too many spices.
- The coffee menu was underwhelming. Maybe things are different during coffee brunch (and will definitely improve in the near future when Stumptown opens on the other side of the lobby).
- Parking is a nightmare and valet parking costs $15, so plan ahead.