Dusek’s is quite an interesting place in Pilsen. Together with Punch House and Thalia Hall they create a perfect combination of music and food. Dusek’s is unique in this trio in that it is a higher class establishment, with prices to match. If you want to try something new and are not limited by budget, this place is worth paying attention to.
1227 W. 18th St. Chicago, IL 60608
Time flies. It’s already 2016, and Dusek’s has been restored in a new form for three years now, and it was on New Year’s that I first tried the local cuisine. I’ve been to the building a few times, to Thalia Hall and Punch House, but I’ve never tried Dusek’s before. I decided that New Year’s would be the time to try the dishes I’ve been wanting for a long time. And so, 2016 began with Dusek’s.
Naturally, the restaurant’s interior felt familiar. The seating, the dim lighting, the music – only this time I was dining there. The last time I was in Pilsen, it was for a concert at Thalia Hall and for a few cocktails at Oysters, an underground lounge bar in Punch House. Dusek’s has the proverbial “too cool for school” vibe without going overboard. The beer selection is impeccable and the menu is varied, to say the least. The lounge bar serves the “Juicy Lucy” burger, which I’ve tried before, so I wanted something unique to Dusek’s. In the end, I decided to order the seared scallops from their small plates menu. Together we ordered their wood roasted stuffed pretzel, beef-fat fries for starters and a juicy Lucy, as well as the daily special “the original”, which was roast duck breast with dark lager.
Overall, the restaurant was cozy and lived up to expectations. Celebrating New Year’s Eve with close friends, I couldn’t have asked for better. The pretzel came first and it was great, stuffed with hard cheese, and it was delicious. Baked on wood chips, the pretzel was also flavorful, the cheese topped it all off, and the beer mustard was surprisingly spicy. The beef-fat fries came next, and here too, our expectations were met, the beef fat added extra flavor to the fries, and overall, they were similar to duck fries, only a little heavier. The fries were served with homemade ketchup, more like a cocktail sauce. Overall, the appetizers were impressive, and I expected no less from the main courses.
The Juicy Lucy was a real winner, with cheese and red onion and bacon marmalade. It also came with beef fries, all for $15, making it one of the cheapest options considering what it included. Next up were the scallops. With oxtail bourguignon, root vegetables, mushrooms, potato gnocchi and fondue cheese – the flavours and aromas were incredible. But I was put off by the size. Yes, they were in the small plates section, but for $18 I expected a bit more. Last to arrive was the “dish of the day” – “the original” roasted duck breast with parsnip puree, picked kumquat, black trumpet mushrooms and cranberry gastrique. The flavours were wonderful. The only thing that spoiled everything was the fact that the duck breast was undercooked – rare. I’m generally quite wary of duck and poultry in general, but this was too much. Putting aside the undercooked breast, I moved on to the potatoes.
Overall, Dusek’s is a top-notch establishment. The food, flavors, and concepts definitely worked together. However, there were a few minor annoyances that marred the dining experience and made me question whether I would return to Dusek’s again. Are a few scallops really worth $18? I don’t know. But I can definitely say that overall, I enjoyed the food and would happily order their beef-fat fries again.
FOR:
- Options: The restaurant’s location allows for a variety of options in Pilsen. The concert hall is next door, and the punch bar with oysters is downstairs. Even if you come to Pilsen for this, the trip will be worth it.
- Beef-fat fries: This dish was made for me. Perfectly fried and crispy fries. Plus the homemade ketchup was great.
- Parking: There are parking meters in front of the restaurant, and I remember there used to be parking in the back, but since then it’s only accessible with a pass. So parking can be tricky, but it doesn’t have to be if you can find good spots.
- Party Downstairs: Take your beer or cocktail downstairs. You can also grab a bite to eat and try oysters, along with an extensive menu. DJs often play here.
- Atmosphere: Overall the atmosphere here is great. They almost reached the level of pretentiousness, but still managed to hold on. I liked Dusek’s and the whole idea, but I’m not sure I would feel comfortable there again.
AGAINST:
- Prices: I knew in advance that this would be a fairly expensive dinner, but I was still disappointed with the price of $18 for 3 scallops.
- Service: I won’t lie, the service wasn’t the best. First of all, our waitress had no sense of humor. My friend joked a lot (not always successfully, of course), but she ignored them all. Not a shadow of a smile flashed across her face. She looked down on us, and I certainly didn’t like that. I’m sure that if it weren’t for her attitude, I would have liked it here more.
- Seating: The restaurant wasn’t packed, but many of the tables were just too close together. We ate practically with the couple next to us.
- Duck: I really didn’t like the duck with blood. Such things are very critical for me, and it spoiled my appetite.
- Portion sizes: Even the daily special wasn’t that big. For $28 for an entree, I expected more. Well, it included a free beer.